PROGRAMME – SYMPOSIUM 2026
SKIN & INTERFACES
Decoding the living network
Tuesday 8th of December – morning
09:00
Welcome Coffee
09:20
International Symposium SFC Opening Address – day 1
Richard LEROUX & Isabelle THUILLIER
President of the SFC / VP of SFC Sciences & Technology Department
TOPIC 1 – CUTANEAOUS BIOLOGY: TISSUE INTERFACES
10:00
Understanding Local Immune Memory at the Heart of Inflammatory Skin Diseases
Marc VOCANSON / CIRI (Centre International de Recherche en Infectiologie)
Why do inflammatory skin conditions tend to recur in the same place?
This presentation explores the key role of resident memory T cells and the mechanisms that govern their persistence in the skin, thereby paving the way for new therapeutic strategies to reduce the incidence of relapses.
10:20
Pioneering Single-Cell Transcriptomics in Reconstructed Human Skin Models for Precision Cosmetic Research
Silvia BENITO MARTÍNEZ / PROVITAL
Single-cell RNA sequencing (scRNA-seq) offers new avenues to decode the skin interactome by resolving tissue heterogeneity and intercellular communications. Here, we present one of its first applications to reconstructed human skin models, demonstrating that a pigmented epidermal equivalent recapitulates keratinocyte diversity and differentiation states. Furthermore, cell–cell communication analysis uncovered a signaling axis (L1CAM–EZR) linking melanocyte–keratinocyte crosstalk to epidermal development. This technology paves the way for cell-specific biomarker discovery, mechanistic evaluation of cosmetic actives and precision skin research.
10:40
In vitro 3D Neuro-mimetic Human skin model Reveals a Tissue-level Role of Neuronal RGMB Signalling in Focal Hyperpigmentation and Pigmentary Ageing
Lauriane IMBERT ROUX / GREENTECH
This study evaluated the tissue-level role of sensory neuron-derived Repulsive Guidance Molecule B (RGMB) in focal hyperpigmentation using a full-thickness 3D reconstructed human pigmented skin model. Recombinant RGMB progressively remodeled epidermal architecture, increased the overall pigmentary index, enhanced melanocyte dendricity, and promoted vertical melanin redistribution into suprabasal layers alongside peripheral Rab27a localization. Concomitant UVB exposure amplified these effects, demonstrating that neuronal RGMB signaling regulates melanosome trafficking and maintains focal hyperpigmented phenotypes characteristic of solar lentigines.
11:10
Break Buffet (30 min) sponsored by
11:35
Latest Insights into Selective Autophagy for Skin Cell Detoxication
Laurie VERZEAUX / SILAB
Autophagy ensures continuous recycling of dysfunctional cellular components. SILAB’s research revealed its key role in detoxification, as well as its declining efficacy with age.
Beyond general autophagy, selective autophagy targets specific elements. Mitophagy eliminates damaged mitochondria, while ferritinophagy releases iron essential for cellular functions. Ferritinophagy impairment leads to the decrease in iron bioavailability. Upon UV exposure, iron-ferritin complexes are broken down, leading to a significant oxidative stress.
Targeting both general and selective autophagy preserves cellular homeostasis and detoxifies the skin.
11:55
Beyond Exosomes: Stress-Adapted Plant Strategy as a Regulator of Skin Neuro-Pigmentation
Geoffroy TOUSCH / SOLABIA
Extracellular vesicles (EVs), including exosomes, are universal biological messengers across kingdoms. In plants, EV-mediated signaling contributes to adaptive responses against environmental stresses such as UV radiation, drought, and pathogens. Lemon thyme (Thymus citriodorus), a Mediterranean plant naturally resilient to intense sunlight and abiotic stress, represents a valuable source of stress-associated biological signals. We investigated whether an EV-enriched lemon thyme extract could modulate neuro and cutaneous communication pathways involved in post inflammatory hyperpigmentation leading to melanin overproduction.
12:40
The Impact of the Exposome on Skin Ageing
Thierry PASSERON / CHU de NICE
The skin is an organ that is particularly susceptible to the exposome. We will discuss the impact on skin ageing of the main exposome factors, such as solar radiation, as well as pollution, smoking, diet, stress and lack of sleep.
14:00
Networking Lunch (1 hr 20 min) sponsored by
Tuesday 8th of December – afternoon
TOPIC 2 – THE SKIN-BRAIN AXIS & NEUROSCIENCE
14:40
“Neurocosmetics”: A Critical Scientific Perspective on the Challenges of Demonstrating Effects on Well-being
Gordy PLEYERS & Nicolas VERMEULEN / UCLouvain & Mind Insights
Commercial claims about neurocosmetics promise improved well-being. However, in light of scientific research, demonstrating such effects poses a particularly complex challenge: It requires specialized scientific expertise, rigorous study designs, and advanced equipment to measure individuals’ responses reliably and control the many factors that could otherwise compromise the study’s validity.
15:00
Smart-FAT: an Innovative and Predictive Screening Model Mimicking Cross-talk between Human Sensory Neurons and Adipose Cells
Mayoura KEOPHIPHATH & Élodie GRAS LAVIGNE / DIVA Expertise & NEURON EXPERTS
Two innovative human coculture models combining hiPSC-derived sensory neurons with preadipocytes or mature adipocytes were developed to investigate neuro-adipose interactions. Functional sensory neurons expressed adiponectin receptors and perilipin, suggesting novel neuro-adipose communication pathways. Coculture reduced preadipocyte differentiation markers and lipid accumulation, while mature adipocytes retained metabolic responsiveness to pharmacological stimulation. These findings highlight bidirectional interactions between sensory neurons and adipose cells, providing relevant in vitro tools for investigating skin homeostasis and evaluating dermocosmetic ingredients targeting adipose tissue remodeling.
OUT OF THE BOX
15:40
From Clinical Regenerative Medicine to Cosmetics: Translating Biological Signaling into Safe Innovation
Pierre BONETTI / AD COSMETICS
Drawing on regenerative medicine techniques, this presentation explores how supporting skin quality over time can promote a more favorable skinspan trajectory, and how these scientific concepts can be translated into safe, effective, and accessible daily skincare rituals.
16:10
Break Buffet (30 min) sponsored by
TOPIC 3 – THE HAIR-SCALP ECOSYSTEM
16:30
Hair Follicle Immune Privilege: The Impact of Stress and Microbiome Dysbiosis on Alopecia Development
Catherine ZANCHETTA / GIVAUDAN ACTIVE BEAUTY
This study investigates how psychological stress and microbiome dysbiosis contribute to hair follicle immune privilege collapse and alopecia. In a keratinocyte-neuron co-culture model, chronic cortisol exposure and microbiota-derived metabolites increased Substance P release. In ex vivo human hair follicles, elevated Substance P increased MHC-I and MHC-II expression, reduced anagen follicles, promoted telogen transition, decreased cell proliferation, and increased apoptosis. These findings identify Substance P as a shared neuroimmune mechanism and potential target for preventing or treating inflammatory alopecias in humans.
16:50
A Postbiotic Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Modulates Melanocyte Stem Cell Niche Genes and Reduces Clinical Hair Graying Severity
Valéria BARROS CÂMARA / CHEMYUNION
This study evaluated Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate as an anti-aging hair active. In ex vivo models, the ingredient increased genes involved in melanogenesis, melanosome transfer, and melanocyte stem cell survival, resulting in a 43% increase in follicular melanin. In a 120-day clinical study, it significantly reduced gray hair intensity, color heterogeneity, and brightness compared with placebo. No scalp irritation was reported, supporting its good tolerability and potential for anti-gray hair formulations.
17:10
The Scalp Sommensal Secretome as a Candidate Upstream Signal to the Neuroimmuno-cutaneous Network: Microbiome Rebalancing by a Lactobacillus/Soymilk Ferment Filtrate
/ SETHIC
The scalp microbiome interacts with the neuro-immuno-cutaneous (NIC) network. This study investigates how Lactobacillus/Soymilk Ferment Filtrate (LSFF) rebalances scalp microbiota and influences commensal-mediated responses. Through microbiome profiling, cellular and neuronal assays, and clinical evaluation, the findings showed changes in microbial composition, barrier-related markers, inflammatory responses, neuronal activity, and clinical scalp parameters. These results suggest a potential upstream role for microbiome modulation in the NIC network, with implications for scalp homeostasis.
17:40
PhD & POST-DOC ROUND TABLE
Marielle LTEIF (UNIVERSITY ORLÉANS) / Clémence MARTIN (UNIVERSITY LE HAVRE NORMANDIE) / Lucia RICCI (UNIVERSITY NAPLES FEDERICO II)
Marielle LTEIF : Molecular and Structural Insights into Plant-Derived Dye–Fiber Interactions
Natural dyes are regaining popularity over synthetic ones due to environmental and health concerns, yet how they color hair remains poorly understood. This study combines a synthetic model system (UV-visible, LC-MS, NMR) with direct analysis of intact hair fibers (microscopy and spectroscopy) to characterize molecular and structural changes during plant-based coloration.
Clémence MARTIN : From Molecular Structure to Skin Barrier Function: Understanding Emollient Effects in a Bio-inspired Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix
Emollients are widely used in cosmetics, although their interactions with stratum corneum lipids remain poorly understood. Using a bioinspired lipid matrix mimicking the skin’s lipid cement, we investigated how ester structure influences lipid organisation.
Lucia RICCI : Partnering with Nature Through Plant Cell Culture: Hyssopus officinalis to Support Skin Barrier Homeostasis
The skin barrier is a dynamic biological network essential for maintaining skin homeostasis. This study explores Hyssopus officinalis plant cell culture extract as a sustainable source of cosmetic bioactives for skin wellness.
19:30
COCKTAIL CHAMPAGNE sponsored by
Wednesday 9th of December – morning
08:50
Welcome Coffee
09:00
International Symposium SFC Opening Address – day 2
Isabelle THUILLIER / Stéphane POIGNY
VP of SFC Sciences & Technology Department / Head of the SFC International Symposium Committee
TOPIC 1 – HOST-MICROBIOTAS DIALOGUE
09:40
Scalp Microbiota: a Skin Microbiota Closer to ‘Us’
Rached ISMAIL / CBSA & Cosmetomics@URN
The human scalp harbors a distinct lipid-rich microbiota. Yet, its composition, functions and interactions remain under-characterized. Recent studies suggest that the way this microbiota interacts with its host could impact more than our scalp homeostasis and hair health.
10:00
Role of Malassezia Secreted Aspartic Proteases in Scalp Barrier Integrity
VijayKumar PATRA / L’ORÉAL R&I
Malassezia secreted aspartic proteases (SAPs) contribute to dandruff barrier damage. M. restricta expressed the most SAPs, followed by M. furfur and M. globosa. Their strain, time and pH-dependent activity degrades key structural corneocyte proteins, revealing a new mechanism of scalp dysbiosis.
10:20
Impact of the Neurohormone CGRP on the Regulatory Potential of a Commensal Scalp Bacterium on Inflammation and Hair Cycling Control Proteins Expression
Marc FEUILLOLEY / University ROUEN NORMANDIE & SISLEY Paris
The neurohormone calcitonin gene related hormone (CGRP) is abundant in the scalp where it plays key roles, but it can be also acting on cutaneous bacteria. In this work, we present a newly identified strain of Bacillus licheniformis with commensal profile that react to CGRP by an increase in inflammatory potential and appears capable to modulate expression of proteins essential in hair dynamics.
10:50
Break Buffet (30 min) sponsored by
11:10
A Microbiota-inspired Trace Amine Derivative restores Tissue Repair by mimicking Host–microbiota Neurochemical Dialogue
Emmanuel COSTE / EXSYMOL
Skin repair relies on molecular crosstalk between microbiota, skin cells and the nervous system. Skin commensal bacteria generate trace amines (TA) capable of modulating β2-adrenergic receptor (β2-AR) signaling which is disrupted during epinephrine-mediated psychological stress.
A cosmetic-grade TA-mimic acts as a β2-AR partial antagonist capable of negating epinephrine-mediated effects of psychological stress on skin, thus restoring wound healing capacities and preventing premature aging.
This biomimetic approach opens new perspectives for improving skin resilience to stress.
OUT OF THE BOX
11:50
Physicochemistry of Skin Surfaces and Interfaces
Michel GRISEL / University LE HAVRE NORMANDIE
After a presentation of skin characteristics and surface properties, this session proposes an overview of the most relevant available methods to characterize them and the highlighting of certain skin disorders.
TOPIC 4 – NATURE AS PARTNER
12:40
Algae: From Life’s Origin to Solutions for the Future
Julie PERSON / CEA
From the origins of life to tomorrow’s innovations, algae offer remarkable biological diversity and potential. This presentation explores their planetary role, unique bioactive compounds, industrial challenges, and emerging applications in cosmetics, nutrition and well-being, and sustainable innovation.
13:50
Networking Lunch (1hr 10min) sponsored by
Wednesday 9th of December – afternoon
14:00
Latest breakthroughs in Cosmetic Science: Key Insights from the 2026 IFSCC
Isabelle CASTIEL / IFSCC
Passionate about scientific research and communication, Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc is convinced of the essentiality of cosmetics and their importance for the beauty and health of our skin, hair and our quality of life.
As an active member of the IFSCC (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists) on behalf of the SFC (Société Française de Cosmétologie) since 2022, she has been appointed IFSCC vice-president in 2024, and president at the 2025 Congress held in Cannes.
TOPIC 3 – THE HAIR-SCALP ECOSYSTEM (continued)
14:40
Marta BERTOLINI / QIMA
15:00
A Multidimensional Framework reveals Long-chain Ceramides as Key Regulators of Scalp Homeostasis and Hair Follicle Function
Tatiana KONDAKOVA / CRODA BEAUTY
Long-chain ceramides were investigated using a multidimensional evaluation framework integrating hair follicle biology, scalp barrier function, microbiome ecology, hair fiber integrity, and clinical assessment. Results demonstrated improved follicular activity, enhanced resilience to oxidative, inflammatory, and environmental stress, microbiome rebalancing, and recovery of damaged hair fibers. Clinical studies confirmed scalp soothing, reduced desquamation, and improved hair quality. These findings highlight long-chain ceramides as key regulators of scalp homeostasis and support a holistic approach to hair–scalp ecosystem longevity.
15:20
Decoding the Hair–Scalp Living Network Through a Bio-Based Succinic Acid: Connecting Sebogenesis, Microbial Ecosystem Regulation, Follicular Biology and Hair Fiber Integrity
Damien TRUFFIN / ROQUETTE
This study investigated the effects of a bio-based succinic acid on the scalp-hair living ecosystem. Using cellular, tissue, and ex vivo models, it reduced androgen-induced sebogenesis, promoted physiological desquamation, preserved skin barrier integrity, and inhibited Malassezia growth. In parallel, it enhanced key markers of hair follicle activity and improved the mechanical properties of hair fibers. These findings highlight its potential as a multifunctional active ingredient to restore scalp homeostasis and support overall hair health and quality.
15:40
Linking Scalp Biophysical Condition, Corneocyte Nanotexture, and Hair Fiber Surface During Moisturizing Care
Arthur DERVILLEZ / LORETTA BIOTECH
This study investigates the relationships between scalp biophysical condition, corneocyte nanotexture, and hair fiber surface following repeated use of a moisturizing treatment. Atomic force microscopy (AFM) revealed reduced corneocyte roughness and circular nano-object density, alongside improved hair cuticle uniformity and regularity. These findings highlight the value of a multiscale approach combining scalp biophysical measurements and nanoscale surface characterization to objectively assess the overall efficacy of scalp and hair care products.
TOPIC 4 – NATURE AS PARTNER (continued)
16:00
From Geroscience to Skin Longevity: In Silico Prediction and Validation
Jean-Marie BOTTO / EDENAE Phytoconsulting
This presentation examines how geroscience can reshape our understanding of skin aging. By connecting hallmarks of aging with cutaneous biology, it explores how in silico prediction, mechanistic biomarkers and experimental models can support the development and validation of skin longevity strategies.
16:20
A Plant-derived Recombinant Human Protein re-educates Hyperreactive Skin via Langerhans Cells Tolerogenic Reprogramming
Laura BERTRAND / VYTRUS
Urban pollution drives the immune hyperreactivity behind sensitive skin, which 60–70% of consumers report. This work evaluated a plant-produced recombinant human GM-CSF designed to restore Langerhans cell-mediated immune tolerance. In a pollution-challenged epidermis model, it normalized inflammatory markers, enhanced tolerogenic mediators and restored barrier proteins, without dexamethasone-like over-suppression. Two 28-day double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical studies showed redness reductions of up to 65.3% and improved functional signs in all panelists. The protein re-educates, rather than suppresses, the skin’s immune response.
16:40
Nature as a Partner in Cosmetic Biotechnology: Fermentation-derived Salidroside as a Bioengineered Active for Stressed Skin
Gaëlle BELLEMERE / INNOSYA COSMETIC INGREDIENTS
Biotechnology overcomes limitations of direct botanical sourcing (variability, sustainability) by producing nature-identical actives like salidroside—a CITES-protected Rhodiola rosea compound—via engineered E. coli. This precision fermentation yields a pure, consistent ingredient with proven efficacy: antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging (sirtuin activation, reduced senescence), and stress-relieving (lowering skin cortisol). Clinical trials confirmed its benefits for stressed skin. This approach transforms rare natural molecules into controlled, high-performance cosmetic solutions.
17:00
International Symposium SFC Closing Address
Isabelle THUILLIER & Stéphane POIGNY
VP of SFC Sciences & Technology Department / Head of the SFC International Symposium Committee
