IFSCC 2025

Towards an Augmented Cosmetic: Between Nature, Artificial Intelligence, Emotions and Sustainability

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

During the 2025 IFSCC Congress, held under the theme “The Future is Science”, the cosmetics industry demonstrated its ability to transform and redefine itself in response to sustainability challenges and the rapid evolution of technologies. This transformation is rooted in a renewed observation of living systems, whose adaptive strategies inspire the development of ingredients, formulations and packaging that are both sustainable and biocompatible.

Human skin perfectly illustrates this continuous capacity for adaptation. Its pigmentation, shaped over time by human migrations, reflects the plasticity of living organisms in response to environmental constraints. Skin diversity, influenced by genetic, cultural and behavioural factors, now inspires a more functional, inclusive and personalised approach to skincare [1].

Artificial intelligence (AI) and biometric technologies are opening up new fields of exploration. They enable analysis, modelling and prediction on an unprecedented scale, while optimising research and formulation processes. Far from replacing human creativity, AI enhances it, becoming a tool for augmented intelligence that supports explainable, responsible and sustainable innovation [2].

By integrating the dimension of perception and emotion, cosmetics now connect biological data with sensory experiences and emotional responses. Beauty is increasingly viewed as a holistic experience, where care, technology and well-being converge.

A Meta View on the Skin: Interactions between skin and human body ecosystems

Skin–brain axis, skin–microbiome interconnections

Par Anaïs BONNEFOY

In recent years, two highly dynamic research fields have emerged, highlighting the essential role of the skin within a complex network of interactions with other physiological systems. On the one hand, work on the skin–brain axis has improved understanding of the skin’s neural mechanisms and how they can be modulated. On the other hand, research on the skin microbiome has deepened knowledge of the microbial ecosystem living on the skin surface and its role in maintaining cutaneous homeostasis.

The first part of this article describes the mechanisms linking the skin and the brain. The second part focuses on interactions between the skin and the microbiome.

A Meta View on the Skin: A dynamic interface connected with its environment

Review of the main external factors influencing immune processes and cutaneous homeostasis

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

Skin condition is often perceived as a tangible testimony of the passage of time, but it also reflects the environments in which an individual has evolved. It is therefore not uncommon, especially among informed observers, to rely on imagination to sketch stereotypical assumptions about a person’s past experiences. For instance, the presence of numerous age-related pigmentation spots, known as lentigines, may suggest prolonged sun exposure over many summers (and without adequate protection…). Conversely, a “baby-like” skin appearance at an advanced age may imply a healthy lifestyle (and possibly a favourable genetic background…).