Author: melanie.castellanos@sfcosmeto.fr

Skin and immunity

Key players, mechanisms and new perspectives

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

The skin forms the body’s first line of defence against the environment. Exposed daily to a wide range of external stressors, it activates defence mechanisms that combine its barrier function with innate and adaptive immunity.

A well-coordinated immune response eliminates potentially harmful agents whilst maintaining tolerance towards the commensal microorganisms of the microbiota and the body’s own constituents. Once the threat has been averted, the immune response must return to a resting state in order to prevent the development of persistent inflammation. Skin immunity is thus based on a balance between surveillance, activation and regulation.

Recent research highlights several distinctive features of this local defence mechanism: the persistence of an immune memory following inflammatory episodes, the influence of the microbiome on the regulation of immune responses, the immune privilege of certain structures such as the hair follicle, and the close interaction between immune cells and the nervous system.

Agriculture: the new driver of cosmetic innovation

A look back at the COSM’AGRI 2026 event

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

Cosmetic innovation is often associated with the development of new active ingredients or new formulation. However, when it comes to ingredients of natural origin, it begins right at the agricultural stage. Cultivation conditions, the availability of resources and processing methods directly influence the characteristics of plant-based raw materials. Against a backdrop of climate change, geopolitical tensions, water and soil-related challenges, and cost volatility, agriculture now plays a strategic role in cosmetic ingredient sourcing, going far beyond naturalness alone.

It is with this in mind that the COSM’AGRI meetings were created, with the aim of bringing together professionals from the agricultural and cosmetics sectors to encourage dialogue and the development of joint, sustainable projects. The event is organised by Sandrine LECOINTE (Oane), an expert in eco-design for cosmetics, Margaux SABATIER (Cofarming) and Émilie OBRE (Elysia Bioscience). Following an inaugural event in 2025 in Bordeaux, which focused on climate change, the 2026 edition focused specifically on two closely linked resources: water and soil, and was organised in collaboration with the professional association COSMED in Lyon.

High-tech beauty

An in-depth look at the physical mechanisms revolutionising the cosmetics industry

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

Long reserved for beauty salons and aesthetic medicine clinics, technological beauty devices are now available to the general public. This widespread adoption has been accompanied by a diversification of stimulation methods, such as light, electrical currents, heat and mechanical stimulation.

These devices differ from conventional cosmetic products in terms of their mode of action and regulatory framework. Whilst cosmetic products rely mainly on the application of active ingredients to the skin’s surface, these devices deliver physical energy designed to interact directly with the skin’s tissues. Their aim is to stimulate certain biological mechanisms involved, in particular, in skin ageing, inflammation, tissue repair and the skin’s barrier function.

In-cosmetics Global 2026

Biotechnology, regeneration, multifunctionality and wellbeing

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

The 2026 edition of in-cosmetics Global confirms a trend that has been emerging over recent years: innovation is no longer limited to the launch of new ingredients, but is increasingly based on the reformulation of established active ingredients, the optimisation of delivery systems and the expansion of claimed benefits. Amidst the wide variety of new launches on display, several trends are emerging: the reinvention of long-established active ingredients, the development of solutions inspired by regenerative medicine, the extension of skincare principles to other categories, and a growing emphasis on emotional and sensory wellbeing. These trends reflect a cosmetics industry that is paying greater attention to the versatility of formulations and the interplay between efficacy, performance in use and sustainability.

IFSCC 2025

Towards an Augmented Cosmetic: Between Nature, Artificial Intelligence, Emotions and Sustainability

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

During the 2025 IFSCC Congress, held under the theme “The Future is Science”, the cosmetics industry demonstrated its ability to transform and redefine itself in response to sustainability challenges and the rapid evolution of technologies. This transformation is rooted in a renewed observation of living systems, whose adaptive strategies inspire the development of ingredients, formulations and packaging that are both sustainable and biocompatible.

Human skin perfectly illustrates this continuous capacity for adaptation. Its pigmentation, shaped over time by human migrations, reflects the plasticity of living organisms in response to environmental constraints. Skin diversity, influenced by genetic, cultural and behavioural factors, now inspires a more functional, inclusive and personalised approach to skincare [1].

Artificial intelligence (AI) and biometric technologies are opening up new fields of exploration. They enable analysis, modelling and prediction on an unprecedented scale, while optimising research and formulation processes. Far from replacing human creativity, AI enhances it, becoming a tool for augmented intelligence that supports explainable, responsible and sustainable innovation [2].

By integrating the dimension of perception and emotion, cosmetics now connect biological data with sensory experiences and emotional responses. Beauty is increasingly viewed as a holistic experience, where care, technology and well-being converge.

Skinification in all its forms

From scalp to body: sophistication gaining ground

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

A key target of haircare routines, the scalp is now becoming a true care area. Long limited to functional gestures or dandruff control, it is today considered an extension of the facial skin.

Cleansed, exfoliated, hydrated or soothed, it now adopts the same codes as facial care: targeted actives, technical textures, precise gestures and personalised protocols. This evolution reflects a more holistic approach to care, where the balance of the scalp is seen in continuity with that of the skin.

This logic no longer stops at the scalp: under the impulse of skinification, body care is also becoming richer, with sophisticated textures, precise routines and key facial actives, in a quest for performance and overall coherence.

Influence of the climate on the skin

Innovative formulas for optimal skin comfort

By Anaïs BONNEFOY, with the expertise of Jean-Claude LE JOLIFF, founder of the Cosmétothèque

The impact of the climate on the skin and the adaptation of formulations in consequence are subjects that, although debated for a long time in the cosmetic industry, take today all their senses. According to Mr. Le Joliff, the industry has always been able to adapt to climatic variations, even if this preoccupation has sometimes been put aside. Current climatic changes are multidimensional, considering factors such as temperature and UV rays, but also atmospheric pollution. This complexity reinforces the need to understand the interaction between these diverse environmental factors, skin responses and the use of specific formulations for optimal comfort. In addition, seasonal cosmetics, a practice well established in some Asian countries, have been offering for a long time products adapted to different seasons. Light summer formulations meet specific needs of the skin exposed to heat and humidity, while winter products offer increased moisturisation against the effects of cold and dryness. Then, based on solid research concerning the influence of the climate on the skin, this new dynamic constitutes, as described by Mr. Le Joliff, a form of “inherited innovation” capitalising on knowledge and discoveries already established in this field.

360° sun care evaluation

In vitro and in vivo tests and innovations for complete, efficient and safe protection

par Anaïs BONNEFOY

In this final step of our exploration of sun care products in preparation for the Rencontres by SFC in June, we take a close look at the efficacy tests accompanying these products. In addition to stability tests, which are standard for all cosmetic products, a wide range of additional tests, whether mandatory or optional, is available.

Sun care formulation

Overcoming challenges to deliver effective and pleasant protection solutions

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

The development of sun care formulas is one of the most complex and stimulating fields of today’s cosmetic industry. With growing consumer demand for products combining performance, pleasant sensory feel, innovative textures, environmental respect, and health safety, formulators are constantly challenged to create the perfect sun care product. This mission is made even more difficult in a context where consumers are increasingly informed and demanding, while regulations evolve rapidly. In addition, these regulations differ significantly from one country to another, further complicating global product launches.

Sun care evolution

Claims and trends over time

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

For centuries, the sun was avoided by the upper classes, considered a marker of lower social status. However, the rise of paid holidays at the end of the 19th century marked a turning point, valorising tanned skin, a trend promoted by Gabrielle Chanel and encouraged by the growth of seaside vacations [1] [2].