Tag: Focus By SFC

High-tech beauty

An in-depth look at the physical mechanisms revolutionising the cosmetics industry

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

Long reserved for beauty salons and aesthetic medicine clinics, technological beauty devices are now available to the general public. This widespread adoption has been accompanied by a diversification of stimulation methods, such as light, electrical currents, heat and mechanical stimulation.

These devices differ from conventional cosmetic products in terms of their mode of action and regulatory framework. Whilst cosmetic products rely mainly on the application of active ingredients to the skin’s surface, these devices deliver physical energy designed to interact directly with the skin’s tissues. Their aim is to stimulate certain biological mechanisms involved, in particular, in skin ageing, inflammation, tissue repair and the skin’s barrier function.

In-cosmetics Global 2026

Biotechnology, regeneration, multifunctionality and wellbeing

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

The 2026 edition of in-cosmetics Global confirms a trend that has been emerging over recent years: innovation is no longer limited to the launch of new ingredients, but is increasingly based on the reformulation of established active ingredients, the optimisation of delivery systems and the expansion of claimed benefits. Amidst the wide variety of new launches on display, several trends are emerging: the reinvention of long-established active ingredients, the development of solutions inspired by regenerative medicine, the extension of skincare principles to other categories, and a growing emphasis on emotional and sensory wellbeing. These trends reflect a cosmetics industry that is paying greater attention to the versatility of formulations and the interplay between efficacy, performance in use and sustainability.

IFSCC 2025

Towards an Augmented Cosmetic: Between Nature, Artificial Intelligence, Emotions and Sustainability

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

During the 2025 IFSCC Congress, held under the theme “The Future is Science”, the cosmetics industry demonstrated its ability to transform and redefine itself in response to sustainability challenges and the rapid evolution of technologies. This transformation is rooted in a renewed observation of living systems, whose adaptive strategies inspire the development of ingredients, formulations and packaging that are both sustainable and biocompatible.

Human skin perfectly illustrates this continuous capacity for adaptation. Its pigmentation, shaped over time by human migrations, reflects the plasticity of living organisms in response to environmental constraints. Skin diversity, influenced by genetic, cultural and behavioural factors, now inspires a more functional, inclusive and personalised approach to skincare [1].

Artificial intelligence (AI) and biometric technologies are opening up new fields of exploration. They enable analysis, modelling and prediction on an unprecedented scale, while optimising research and formulation processes. Far from replacing human creativity, AI enhances it, becoming a tool for augmented intelligence that supports explainable, responsible and sustainable innovation [2].

By integrating the dimension of perception and emotion, cosmetics now connect biological data with sensory experiences and emotional responses. Beauty is increasingly viewed as a holistic experience, where care, technology and well-being converge.

Skinification in all its forms

From scalp to body: sophistication gaining ground

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

A key target of haircare routines, the scalp is now becoming a true care area. Long limited to functional gestures or dandruff control, it is today considered an extension of the facial skin.

Cleansed, exfoliated, hydrated or soothed, it now adopts the same codes as facial care: targeted actives, technical textures, precise gestures and personalised protocols. This evolution reflects a more holistic approach to care, where the balance of the scalp is seen in continuity with that of the skin.

This logic no longer stops at the scalp: under the impulse of skinification, body care is also becoming richer, with sophisticated textures, precise routines and key facial actives, in a quest for performance and overall coherence.

360° sun care evaluation

In vitro and in vivo tests and innovations for complete, efficient and safe protection

par Anaïs BONNEFOY

In this final step of our exploration of sun care products in preparation for the Rencontres by SFC in June, we take a close look at the efficacy tests accompanying these products. In addition to stability tests, which are standard for all cosmetic products, a wide range of additional tests, whether mandatory or optional, is available.

Sun care formulation

Overcoming challenges to deliver effective and pleasant protection solutions

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

The development of sun care formulas is one of the most complex and stimulating fields of today’s cosmetic industry. With growing consumer demand for products combining performance, pleasant sensory feel, innovative textures, environmental respect, and health safety, formulators are constantly challenged to create the perfect sun care product. This mission is made even more difficult in a context where consumers are increasingly informed and demanding, while regulations evolve rapidly. In addition, these regulations differ significantly from one country to another, further complicating global product launches.

Sun care evolution

Claims and trends over time

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

For centuries, the sun was avoided by the upper classes, considered a marker of lower social status. However, the rise of paid holidays at the end of the 19th century marked a turning point, valorising tanned skin, a trend promoted by Gabrielle Chanel and encouraged by the growth of seaside vacations [1] [2].

Maximising skin performances throughout the day

Night repair mechanisms and metabolic strategies to mimic UV benefits during the day

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

Global well-being is closely linked to the performance of our biological functions, orchestrated by the circadian clock. This internal clock, synchronised with cycles of light, darkness, and even temperature, regulates many physiological processes that directly impact skin health. Although its main control centre lies in the brain, secondary clocks are present in almost every cell of the body. These are synchronised with natural light cycles through photic signals captured by the retina. The signals are then transmitted to the cells via electrical impulses, regulated by central genes such as CLOCK, BMAL1 and PER [1] [2], and relayed to secondary clocks by neural and hormonal mediators [3]. Many aspects of the skin thus follow a cyclic rhythm, including hydration, transepidermal water loss, capillary blood flow, sebum production, temperature, surface pH, and the proliferation rate of keratinocytes [4]. With the constant cellular renewal of the epidermis, the accurate synchronisation of these events is essential [5], though often disrupted by modern lifestyles.

Evaluate the performance of cosmetic formulations

State of the art and innovations in stability testing and sensory analysis

By Anaïs Bonnefoy, with the expertise of Anne Charpentier

The year 2024, marked by the Olympic Games in France, offers a great occasion to explore the performance of cosmetic formulations. Stability testing and sensory analysis are essential elements in evaluating performance. They play a key role in ensuring product stability over time, consumer safety, and the overall holistic experience. This article reviews stability testing and sensory analysis, highlighting the latest advances in these fields. To shed light on these aspects, Anne Charpentier, founder and director of Skinobs.com, the very first platform dedicated to referencing in vivo cosmetic efficacy testing, instrumentation, methods, and laboratories, shares her expertise.

Symposium 2023 “A Meta View on the Skin”

Review

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

During the “A Meta View on the Skin” Symposium, the exploration of the skin–brain axis highlighted key cellular interactions involved in a holistic approach to beauty. Then, the dive into the holobiont revealed its strong inspirational potential for active ingredients, although many aspects still remain to be explored. The objective of this Symposium was to provide a comprehensive and up-to-date vision of the essential role of the skin in global well-being, while also opening philosophical reflections.