Maximising skin performances throughout the day

Night repair mechanisms and metabolic strategies to mimic UV benefits during the day

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

Global well-being is closely linked to the performance of our biological functions, orchestrated by the circadian clock. This internal clock, synchronised with cycles of light, darkness, and even temperature, regulates many physiological processes that directly impact skin health. Although its main control centre lies in the brain, secondary clocks are present in almost every cell of the body. These are synchronised with natural light cycles through photic signals captured by the retina. The signals are then transmitted to the cells via electrical impulses, regulated by central genes such as CLOCK, BMAL1 and PER [1] [2], and relayed to secondary clocks by neural and hormonal mediators [3]. Many aspects of the skin thus follow a cyclic rhythm, including hydration, transepidermal water loss, capillary blood flow, sebum production, temperature, surface pH, and the proliferation rate of keratinocytes [4]. With the constant cellular renewal of the epidermis, the accurate synchronisation of these events is essential [5], though often disrupted by modern lifestyles.

Evaluate the performance of cosmetic formulations

State of the art and innovations in stability testing and sensory analysis

By Anaïs Bonnefoy, with the expertise of Anne Charpentier

The year 2024, marked by the Olympic Games in France, offers a great occasion to explore the performance of cosmetic formulations. Stability testing and sensory analysis are essential elements in evaluating performance. They play a key role in ensuring product stability over time, consumer safety, and the overall holistic experience. This article reviews stability testing and sensory analysis, highlighting the latest advances in these fields. To shed light on these aspects, Anne Charpentier, founder and director of Skinobs.com, the very first platform dedicated to referencing in vivo cosmetic efficacy testing, instrumentation, methods, and laboratories, shares her expertise.