NEWS
Category: Article scientifique
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26
JUN
Skinification in all its forms
A key target of haircare routines, the scalp is now becoming a true care area. Long limited to functional gestures or dandruff control, it is today considered an extension of the facial skin.
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27
JUN
Influence of the climate on the skin
The impact of the climate on the skin and the adaptation of formulations in consequence are subjects that, although debated for a long time in the cosmetic industry, take today all their senses. According to Mr. Le Joliff, the industry has always been able to adapt to climatic variations, even if this preoccupation has sometimes been put aside. Current climatic changes are multidimensional, considering factors such as temperature and UV rays, but also atmospheric pollution. This complexity reinforces the need to understand the interaction between these diverse environmental factors, skin responses and the use of specific formulations for optimal comfort. In addition, seasonal cosmetics, a practice well established in some Asian countries, have been offering for a long time products adapted to different seasons. Light summer formulations meet specific needs of the skin exposed to heat and humidity, while winter products offer increased moisturisation against the effects of cold and dryness. Then, based on solid research concerning the influence of the climate on the skin, this new dynamic constitutes, as described by Mr. Le Joliff, a form of “inherited innovation” capitalising on knowledge and discoveries already established in this field.
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30
MAY
360° sun care evaluation
In this final step of our exploration of sun care products in preparation for the Rencontres by SFC in June, we take a close look at the efficacy tests accompanying these products. In addition to stability tests, which are standard for all cosmetic products, a wide range of additional tests, whether mandatory or optional, is available.
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25
APR
Sun care formulation
The development of sun care formulas is one of the most complex and stimulating fields of today’s cosmetic industry. With growing consumer demand for products combining performance, pleasant sensory feel, innovative textures, environmental respect, and health safety, formulators are constantly challenged to create the perfect sun care product. This mission is made even more difficult in a context where consumers are increasingly informed and demanding, while regulations evolve rapidly. In addition, these regulations differ significantly from one country to another, further complicating global product launches.
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28
MAR
Sun care evolution
For centuries, the sun was avoided by the upper classes, considered a marker of lower social status. However, the rise of paid holidays at the end of the 19th century marked a turning point, valorising tanned skin, a trend promoted by Gabrielle Chanel and encouraged by the growth of seaside vacations [1] [2].
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27
FEB
Maximising skin performances throughout the day
Global well-being is closely linked to the performance of our biological functions, orchestrated by the circadian clock. This internal clock, synchronised with cycles of light, darkness, and even temperature, regulates many physiological processes that directly impact skin health. Although its main control centre lies in the brain, secondary clocks are present in almost every cell of the body. These are synchronised with natural light cycles through photic signals captured by the retina. The signals are then transmitted to the cells via electrical impulses, regulated by central genes such as CLOCK, BMAL1 and PER [1] [2], and relayed to secondary clocks by neural and hormonal mediators [3]. Many aspects of the skin thus follow a cyclic rhythm, including hydration, transepidermal water loss, capillary blood flow, sebum production, temperature, surface pH, and the proliferation rate of keratinocytes [4]. With the constant cellular renewal of the epidermis, the accurate synchronisation of these events is essential [5], though often disrupted by modern lifestyles.
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25
JAN
Evaluate the performance of cosmetic formulations
The year 2024, marked by the Olympic Games in France, offers a great occasion to explore the performance of cosmetic formulations. Stability testing and sensory analysis are essential elements in evaluating performance. They play a key role in ensuring product stability over time, consumer safety, and the overall holistic experience. This article reviews stability testing and sensory analysis, highlighting the latest advances in these fields. To shed light on these aspects, Anne Charpentier, founder and director of Skinobs.com, the very first platform dedicated to referencing in vivo cosmetic efficacy testing, instrumentation, methods, and laboratories, shares her expertise.
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1
DEC
Symposium 2023 “A Meta View on the Skin”
During the “A Meta View on the Skin” Symposium, the exploration of the skin–brain axis highlighted key cellular interactions involved in a holistic approach to beauty. Then, the dive into the holobiont revealed its strong inspirational potential for active ingredients, although many aspects still remain to be explored. The objective of this Symposium was to provide a comprehensive and up-to-date vision of the essential role of the skin in global well-being, while also opening philosophical reflections.
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30
NOV
A Meta View on the Skin: What are the components of skin communication?
In the previous articles, we reviewed the interconnections of the skin. We began by exploring its interface with the external environment, then examined its links with the human body, and finally discovered communication within the cells themselves. Connections between the skin and its external environment, as well as with other components of the human body such as the brain and the skin microbiota, are made possible thanks to coordinated communication between skin cells. This final part of the “Meta View on the Skin” series examines the mechanisms of intercellular communication within the skin.
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16
NOV
A Meta View on the Skin: Interactions between skin and human body ecosystems
In recent years, two highly dynamic research fields have emerged, highlighting the essential role of the skin within a complex network of interactions with other physiological systems. On the one hand, work on the skin–brain axis has improved understanding of the skin’s neural mechanisms and how they can be modulated.
