Authorisation of new UV filters in Europe

A path paved with (regulatory) obstacles

By Marie Dehlinger

At the heart of numerous controversies throughout the summer, UV filters are cosmetic ingredients that are particularly challenged. So much so that the need to develop new molecules is on everyone’s mind. However, developing a new UV filter is already a complex process, to which must be added the regulatory steps required to authorise its future use in Europe. UV filters are not cosmetic ingredients like any others: their use in cosmetic formulations is governed by a very specific regulatory framework. Before protecting consumers from the sun, they must successfully pass all the steps required to demonstrate their safety of use, and also show a clean environmental profile from an ecotoxicological point of view.

Sun care products: controversial ingredients

Environment, health, efficacy, sensory aspects, regulation

By Anaïs BONNEFOY

Sun care formulation is one of the most challenging segments of the cosmetics market but also one of the most controversial.

The objective is to ensure complete protection against UVA and UVB, while providing a stable formula, pleasant sensory properties, safeguarding consumer health, minimising environmental impact, and keeping costs under control. On top of this, new developments are becoming increasingly innovative: waterless formats, sticks, sweat-resistant formulas, products for hair, and more… a real nightmare for formulators! What choices do they have today?